Kerala Backwaters Escape
Destination
Picture a wide, still waterway with coconut palms leaning over both banks, rice paddies stretching out behind them, and a long wooden boat with a curved thatched roof drifting slowly past a village church. That is the scene that brings most travelers to Alleppey, officially called Alappuzha, the best-known gateway to the Kerala backwaters. A network of canals, rivers, and lakes spreads out from the town across the Kuttanad region, and life here has always moved by water.
The town itself was a busy port and trading center in the 18th and 19th centuries, known for coir (coconut fiber) products, and its canals and bridges once earned it the nickname "Venice of the East." Today, Alleppey is a small, easygoing town with a long beach, an old pier, a few colonial buildings, and boat jetties lined with dozens of houseboats. Most visitors come for one reason: to spend a day and night on a Kerala houseboat, eating home-style meals cooked on board while the countryside slides past.
Beyond the houseboats, Alleppey is a good place to slow down. You can paddle through narrow village canals in a canoe, cycle past paddy fields, visit old churches and temples, or spend an afternoon on a quiet beach. Most Kerala tour packages include Alleppey between Kochi and Thekkady or Kovalam, and it's one of the most relaxing stops on any South India trip.
Houseboat cruise, Kuttanad backwaters, Alleppey Beach, Marari Beach, Champakulam Church, canoe village tours
October – March
Dry, sunny weather and calm water
2 Days.
1 night on a houseboat plus 1 night ashore
Malayalam, English.
Houseboat crews and hotel staff speak basic English
A houseboat stay in Alleppey is the highlight of most Kerala trips. These boats, called kettuvallam, were once used to carry rice and spices along the backwaters. Today they're converted into floating guest rooms with bedrooms, bathrooms, a sitting deck, and a kitchen at the back. Here's what to know before you book.
Check-in is usually around midday at one of the main jetties, such as Punnamada or Finishing Point. A welcome drink is served, and the boat sets off soon after. Lunch is served on board, followed by an afternoon of slow cruising through Kuttanad canals and across Vembanad Lake, with a stop at a village or a toddy shop if you want. Tea and snacks such as banana fritters come in the late afternoon. Houseboats must stop cruising and anchor in the early evening, under local rules meant to protect fishermen and the waterways. You'll spend the night moored near the bank, often next to a village, which is very peaceful. Dinner is served on board. After breakfast the next morning, the boat returns to the jetty, and check-out is around 9 a.m.
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Alleppey
The Kuttanad region around Alleppey is one of the few places in the world where farmers grow rice below sea level. Over generations, villagers built earthen dikes to reclaim land from the lake, and today green paddy fields sit lower than the canals that run beside them. Cruising here shows you everyday Kerala life up close: women washing clothes on stone steps, children rowing to school, ducks being herded across the water, toddy tappers climbing palms, and small shops selling tea and snacks right at the water's edge. This area is the main reason to visit, and it's best seen from a houseboat, a shikara (covered motorboat), or a small canoe.
Vembanad Lake is the longest lake in India and the largest in Kerala, stretching from Alleppey up toward Kochi. Most houseboat routes spend part of the day on its open water, where you'll see fishermen casting nets from narrow boats and wide views across to distant palm-lined shores. The lake is especially pretty in the late afternoon. Its northern side borders Kumarakom, so houseboat routes can link the two.
Alleppey Beach is a long, sandy stretch on the Arabian Sea, with an old lighthouse nearby and the remains of a pier that dates back more than 150 years, from the town's days as a busy port. It's a popular spot for locals in the evening, with snack carts and families walking along the shore. The sea can be rough, so swimming isn't advised, but it's a pleasant place to watch the sunset before or after your houseboat stay. The Alleppey Lighthouse, a short walk inland, can be climbed for views over the town and coast.
About 30 minutes north of Alleppey, Marari Beach is a quiet fishing village beach with soft sand, palm groves, and only a few small resorts and homestays. It's much calmer than Kerala's better-known beaches, and in the morning you can watch fishermen bring their boats in. Many travelers spend a night or two here after their houseboat cruise to relax. Swim only where locals or your resort say it's safe, as currents can be strong.
The village of Champakulam, about 30–40 minutes from Alleppey by road or longer by water, is home to St. Mary's Forane Church, one of the oldest churches in Kerala. Local tradition traces its origins to the early centuries of Christianity in India. The present church has colorful interior paintings and a peaceful setting beside the river. Champakulam is also famous for its snake boat race, held in June or July, which is one of the oldest boat races in Kerala.
About 20 minutes south of Alleppey, the Ambalappuzha Sri Krishna Temple is a traditional Kerala temple built in the region's wooden architectural style. It's famous throughout the state for its palpayasam, a sweet rice pudding made with milk and offered to the deity. Like many temples in Kerala, entry to the inner areas is usually restricted to Hindus, and men are expected to remove their shirts, so foreign visitors often view it from outside. It's still worth a short stop for the atmosphere and architecture.
Located near Kayamkulam, about an hour south of Alleppey, Krishnapuram Palace was built in the 18th century by Marthanda Varma, the ruler of Travancore. It's a fine example of Kerala palace architecture with sloping tiled roofs, wooden ceilings, and narrow windows. The palace is best known for its huge mural of Gajendra Moksham, one of the largest single wall paintings in Kerala. The museum also displays old sculptures, coins, and bronzes. It pairs well with a drive to or from Kollam or Varkala.
Pathiramanal, which means "sands of midnight," is a small island in the middle of Vembanad Lake that can only be reached by boat. It's covered in trees and is home to many birds, including cormorants, herons, and kingfishers, especially in the cooler months. Some houseboat and shikara routes include a stop here. Bring water and insect repellent, as there are no facilities on the island.
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Getting there
Alleppey is easy to reach from Kochi, which is the most common starting point.
Cochin International Airport, about 2 hours away, is the nearest airport; Trivandrum International Airport is about 3.5 hours away
Alappuzha railway station, on the coastal line with trains to Ernakulam, Trivandrum, and Chennai
National Highway 66 links Alleppey with Kochi and Kollam, with good roads to Kumarakom, Kottayam, and Thekkady
Tours that include Alleppey
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Kerala Backwaters Escape
Kerala Backwaters Escape
Kerala Backwaters EscapeN.S. Rathore & Mrs. Omlata Rathore · Managing Director
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